I spent a lot of time in Cali when I was playing pro beach volleyball. Early in the morning I’d lean over the railings on the pier and watch the surfers. Somehow it was even more mesmerizing when they didn’t catch a wave. There was always a rhythm and a surety that something was on it’s way. Something worth waiting for, and in the waiting there was a letting go. Mesmerizing. Sometimes it felt like I was there with them, transfixed, letting go and sure of something too… (like my drier, less shark infested spot was the best place to be).
- about og